I’d like to share with you what it was like when I went to the Awa Odori festival in Tokushima Prefecture, one of the three major Bon dance festivals in Japan. You’ll learn all you need to know about Awa Odori, including the differences between free and paid viewing locations, the details, and its history.
Check here for Tokushima tourist information!!
- Overview and History of Awa Odori Dance
- About the dance
- About the venue
- Awa Odori Dance Experience
- Extremely rare!! Memorial Awa Odori Dance
- Must dance during the day too
- Hotel room was too nice
- Town-wide uproar
- Paid Performance Hall
- Tips for enjoying the Awa Odori Dance
- Summary
- Overview and History of Awa Odori Dance
- About the dance
- About the venue
- Awa Odori Dance Experience
- Extremely rare!! Memorial Awa Odori Dance
- Must dance during the day too
- Hotel room was too nice
- Town-wide uproar
- Paid Performance Hall
- Tips for enjoying the Awa Odori Dance
- Summary
- More Travel Information in Japan
Overview and History of Awa Odori Dance
First, I’ll present you an overview of the Awa Odori Dance Festival.
Event period: August 12th to 15th
Location: Various locations in Tokushima City
Participation fee: Free or paid, depending on the location
The Awa Odori is one of the three major Bon Odori festivals in Japan, alongside the Gujo Odori in Gifu Prefecture and the Nishimonai Bon Odori in Akita Prefecture, and is held during the Obon festival.
It has a long history spanning more than 400 years, and there are various theories about its origins, but the following three are thought to be the most likely.
① It was danced at the celebration when Tokushima Castle was built, when the lord of the castle allowed the people of the castle town to have free reign.
② Furyu Odori, the origin of Nohgaku, was performed at Katsuhata Castle in Tokushima.
③ It originated from Bon Odori, an event held throughout Japan to honor ancestors.
By the Edo period, Awa Odori Dance had become firmly established among the people, and although there were many bans issued due to fears that it had become too popular and would lead to uprisings, there were times when officials would sneakily join in. Awa Odori Dance developed by incorporating elements of dances from all over the country, and from the Meiji period onwards, there was a period when Western instruments such as the violin were incorporated. Until then, it was called Tokushima Bon Odori, but from the Showa period onwards, it was given its current name, Awa Odori, with tourism in mind. It became famous nationwide when it was held in Koenji, Tokyo, and also became known overseas at the Osaka Expo.
About the dance
Unlike typical Bon Odori dances, Awa Odori Dance is an event in which many groups participate, and these groups are called Ren. The size of the groups varies depending on the group, with an average of several dozen people, but some groups can have as many as 100 to 200 people. There are also many different types of groups, such as famous groups that belong to an association, student groups made up mainly of university students, and corporate groups made up mainly of companies. The costumes and forms vary, but there are three main types: male dancers, female dancers, and musical instruments.
Male Dancers
They wear yukata or happi coats and tabi socks and perform a free and dynamic dance. Dancing in yukata is called Yukata dance, and dancing in happi coats is called Hanten dance. There are also groups that include women.
Female dancers
Wearing yukata, straw hats, and geta sandals, they dance with grace and grace.
Musical instruments
The musical instruments uses musical instruments and has six parts: flute, shamisen, cotton drum, large drum, hand drum, and gong (conductor).
Based on these three, there are three main styles of dancing.
① Nonki-cho
This dance style originated from the Nonki-ren, which has been going since 1925, and is characterized by a straight back, lowered hips, and pointed toes.
② Gochahei-cho
This dance originated from the Gochahei-ren, and is performed to slow, relaxed music. The male dancers in particular are characterized by lowering their hips as if they are crawling along the ground, and moving forward on tiptoes while swinging their fans.
③ Aho-cho
This is a dynamic and intense dance style, with male dancers leaning forward and rhythmically swinging lanterns in their hands.
As an aside, there is a Guinness World Record for Awa Odori. It was set in 2019 by the Matsunaga Hospital Kokera Ren, who danced continuously for 12 hours, 14 minutes and 30 minutes. There is also a Niwaka Ren that allows people to join in on the spot, so you can not only watch but also join in by dancing yourself.
About the venue
Not only are there multiple free and paid performance venues, but the dance can also suddenly start in other places such as on the streets and in shopping districts, so you can see it all over Tokushima City. The places you can see it for free are all over town, but there are two places where you can be sure to find a spot:
①Shinmachibashi Enbujo
②Ryogoku Honmachi Enbujo
Prices vary depending on the seat, so it’s hard to say, but I recommend going there and getting a seat close to the exit, and the highest seat where you can see the show from the front. The paid performance hall is divided into two parts, from 6 pm to 7h30 pm and from 8h20 pm to 10 pm. There are three venues:
①Aibahama Enbujo
②Minamiuchimachi Enbujo
③Konyamachi Enbujo
These events are held at night, but there are some places where you can see them for free during the day during the Awa Odori period, as follows:
① Amiko Dome
② Awagin Hall (Tokushima Prefectural Cultural Center)
In addition, even outside of the Awa Odori period, you can see Awa Odori performances at the Awa Odori Hall all year round.
For more information, please see the Tokushima City Sightseeing Model Itinerary.
Awa Odori Dance Experience
From here, I will introduce the Awa Odori Dance that I actually went to. I went on the last day of the Awa Odori Dance, August 15th. This is the Aibahama Enbujo Theater that I went to during the day.
It’s not yet time, so there is nothing there, but it seems like it would be difficult to take in the sights like this unless it was during the day. Among the paid performance venues, this Aibahama Enbujo is the one where entertainers often perform.
Extremely rare!! Memorial Awa Odori Dance
The main event of the Awa Odori Dance is at night, so I spent the day sightseeing in the town. I took a ropeway from the Awa Odori Hall to the top of Mt. Bizan, where the Awa Odori Dance was being held in front of a pagoda.
On this day, the anniversary of the end of the war, the Awa Odori Dance was held in remembrance, and I was able to see the rare sight of monks dancing while reciting sutras. It makes sense, as the Bon Odori is a ceremony to honor ancestors, but I was surprised because I came without knowing anything about it. A TV company was also there to film, and I was even caught on camera on the evening news. More than that, it was the first time I’d ever seen Awa Odori Dance, and there weren’t many people around, so I was incredibly lucky to be able to watch it from up close. I’m not sure if it’s held on the same date and time every year, but it was around 1 pm on August 15th.
Must dance during the day too
Continuing sightseeing in Tokushima, I went to the Amico Dome on the second floor of Amico, a shopping centre near Tokushima Station, where we saw an Awa Odori Dance being performed on stage.
This is a free viewing for anyone, so it was perfect for those who want to enjoy the Awa Odori Dance in the afternoon. It’s close by and various groups take turns performing, so I recommend it.
Hotel room was too nice
After that, I checked in at the hotel and headed to my room, which was right in front of the Aibahama Enbujo Theater. I could look down on the theater and see Mt. Bizan, where I had been until just now, in the distance.
I didn’t request a specific room location, so I appreciate the hotel’s kindness.
After resting for a while, I looked out the window and saw the first part of the night had begun.
The theater is in a straight line, and the performers march along it. In this photo, the entrance is on the left, and the price of seats increases as you move to the right. Therefore, you can see that the seats on the right, where there are more things to see, are more full.
Town-wide uproar
Traffic restrictions will be in place from 6 pm, and some areas will become pedestrian zones. I had already purchased a ticket for the second part, which starts at 8h20 pm, so I walked around the town until then. From Shinmachi Bridge over the Shinmachi River, I could see a group already performing the Awa Odori Dance.
Just across the bridge is Shinmachibashi Enbujo, one of the free performance venues, which has space reserved for parades along the road, just like the paid performance venues.
Since it was free, there were a lot of spectators, so I thought it would be difficult to find a spot. But after lining up for a while in a position where I could see from the front, some spectators left, so I was able to find a good spot in about 10 minutes. The power and excitement of the performance gradually increasing from the back to the front was so moving that I wanted to watch it forever. I left because I wanted to see other places, but I felt that I could still enjoy it even though it was free.
Leaving the free performance hall and heading to our next destination, I passed through a nearby shopping district, where the Awa Odori Dance was also being performed.
I was surprised because this isn’t a performance hall or anything like that.
After passing through the shopping district, I arrived at the dance square south of Ryogoku Bridge. Here, instead of a parade, I could see the dance on stage.
After crossing Ryogoku Bridge, we came across an Awa Odori monument on the bridge railing.
Just beyond the bridge was the second free performance venue, Ryogoku Honmachi Performance Theatre, but there were so many people there that it was impossible for me to go and see anything, and my reservation time was approaching, so I gave up and headed to the paid performance venue.
In order to get to the venue quickly, I took a back road with less people, but here too I encountered a group.
I was really surprised because they were dancing everywhere.
Paid Performance Hall
I somehow managed to arrive at Minamiuchimachi Enbujo Theater in time.
I had purchased tickets for the second part of the show in advance, and when I showed them to the attendant, I was able to enter without any problems.
There was a bridge in front of my seat and I wondered what it was, and then the performance began.
Each group took turns walking, but the best thing about paying a fee is that you can sit down and take your time to watch. Naturally, each group had a different costume, but as I mentioned earlier, each group performed a different style of dance, so each group had their own unique style and was well worth seeing.
I was fascinated by the unity and overwhelming presence of the famous long-established groups, and it was interesting to see the corporate groups’ slogans directly serve as advertising for their companies.
What was disappointing was that they were doing a formation dance where the formation changed further ahead than where I was sitting. I thought it was cool when I saw the men’s and women’s dances forming formations and posing in the afternoon at the memorial Awa Odori Dance, so it was disappointing that I couldn’t see it up close.
Then, about an hour into the second half, it started to rain. I would have thought that I could have used an umbrella, but umbrellas were prohibited because they would have blocked the view of the other spectators. So I continued watching, soaking wet. I had enjoyed the splendor of the Awa Odori Dance in the first hour before the rain, but in the second half, when it was raining, I watched with a feeling of support, thinking that they must have been practicing for this moment on the final day.
Some spectators left because of the rain, but I stayed for one reason. It was the general dance. The general dance is a special event that is only held in the second part of this Minamiuchimachi Enbujo, where all the groups that participated that day come together and parade together for the final time. I chose this day as the finale of the day, but unfortunately it rained. Still, it was moving to see the various costumes, the groups all mixed together, and the way they walked together as one.
At the end, the audience joined in the dancing and it all ended happily.
Tips for enjoying the Awa Odori Dance
This time, I would like to introduce some tips that I felt would be helpful in order to enjoy the Awa Odori Dance even more.
①Book a hotel early
The Awa Odori festival is held in August, but I made my hotel reservation in May. I actually started looking for hotels at the end of April, but most of the hotels were already booked at that point. I continued searching for hotels every day from then on, and finally managed to get one in May. The price was 15,000 yen for a room only, but it had risen to nearly 40,000 yen at the last minute. For this reason, if you are traveling mainly for the festival, it is best to book a hotel early. Some hotels allow free cancellation up to the last minute, so make your reservation first. As I have just explained, not only is securing a base for your stay a top priority, but it also helps to keep the price low.
②At paid performance venues, reserve a seat near the exit
I’ve already mentioned this, but if you’re watching Awa Odori Dance at a paid performance venue, choose a seat close to the exit. The reason is that the closer you are to the exit, the easier it is to see the formation dance. The most ideal seat is the highest seat so you can see it from the front, but if not, try to get as close to the exit as possible. You should definitely see the coolness up close.
③Prepare rain gear
As mentioned in the experience story, you can not use an umbrella even if it rains at the venue. Therefore, I recommend bringing a raincoat. When I went, it was sunny during the day but it started raining at night, so it’s better to have one prepared.
④Let’s dance together
One of the best parts of Awa Odori Dance is that the audience can also participate. You can join in from the beginning as a temporary group, but sometimes there is time set aside at the end of the performance for the audience to dance along with the others. So let’s dance together and enjoy the festival.
Summary
This concludes our introduction to the Awa Odori Dance held in Tokushima City. You can’t experience the excitement and realism of the real thing unless you’re there, so if you’re interested after reading this, be sure to go see the Awa Odori Dance. It will be a memory that will last a lifetime!!
I’d like to share with you what it was like when I went to the Awa Odori festival in Tokushima Prefecture, one of the three major Bon dance festivals in Japan. You’ll learn all you need to know about Awa Odori, including the differences between free and paid viewing locations, the details, and its history.
Check here for Tokushima tourist information!!
Overview and History of Awa Odori Dance
First, I’ll present you an overview of the Awa Odori Dance Festival.
Event period: August 12th to 15th
Location: Various locations in Tokushima City
Participation fee: Free or paid, depending on the location
The Awa Odori is one of the three major Bon Odori festivals in Japan, alongside the Gujo Odori in Gifu Prefecture and the Nishimonai Bon Odori in Akita Prefecture, and is held during the Obon festival.
It has a long history spanning more than 400 years, and there are various theories about its origins, but the following three are thought to be the most likely.
① It was danced at the celebration when Tokushima Castle was built, when the lord of the castle allowed the people of the castle town to have free reign.
② Furyu Odori, the origin of Nohgaku, was performed at Katsuhata Castle in Tokushima.
③ It originated from Bon Odori, an event held throughout Japan to honor ancestors.
By the Edo period, Awa Odori Dance had become firmly established among the people, and although there were many bans issued due to fears that it had become too popular and would lead to uprisings, there were times when officials would sneakily join in. Awa Odori Dance developed by incorporating elements of dances from all over the country, and from the Meiji period onwards, there was a period when Western instruments such as the violin were incorporated. Until then, it was called Tokushima Bon Odori, but from the Showa period onwards, it was given its current name, Awa Odori, with tourism in mind. It became famous nationwide when it was held in Koenji, Tokyo, and also became known overseas at the Osaka Expo.
About the dance
Unlike typical Bon Odori dances, Awa Odori Dance is an event in which many groups participate, and these groups are called Ren. The size of the groups varies depending on the group, with an average of several dozen people, but some groups can have as many as 100 to 200 people. There are also many different types of groups, such as famous groups that belong to an association, student groups made up mainly of university students, and corporate groups made up mainly of companies. The costumes and forms vary, but there are three main types: male dancers, female dancers, and musical instruments.
Male Dancers
They wear yukata or happi coats and tabi socks and perform a free and dynamic dance. Dancing in yukata is called Yukata dance, and dancing in happi coats is called Hanten dance. There are also groups that include women.
Female dancers
Wearing yukata, straw hats, and geta sandals, they dance with grace and grace.
Musical instruments
The musical instruments uses musical instruments and has six parts: flute, shamisen, cotton drum, large drum, hand drum, and gong (conductor).
Based on these three, there are three main styles of dancing.
① Nonki-cho
This dance style originated from the Nonki-ren, which has been going since 1925, and is characterized by a straight back, lowered hips, and pointed toes.
② Gochahei-cho
This dance originated from the Gochahei-ren, and is performed to slow, relaxed music. The male dancers in particular are characterized by lowering their hips as if they are crawling along the ground, and moving forward on tiptoes while swinging their fans.
③ Aho-cho
This is a dynamic and intense dance style, with male dancers leaning forward and rhythmically swinging lanterns in their hands.
As an aside, there is a Guinness World Record for Awa Odori. It was set in 2019 by the Matsunaga Hospital Kokera Ren, who danced continuously for 12 hours, 14 minutes and 30 minutes. There is also a Niwaka Ren that allows people to join in on the spot, so you can not only watch but also join in by dancing yourself.
About the venue
Not only are there multiple free and paid performance venues, but the dance can also suddenly start in other places such as on the streets and in shopping districts, so you can see it all over Tokushima City. The places you can see it for free are all over town, but there are two places where you can be sure to find a spot:
①Shinmachibashi Enbujo
②Ryogoku Honmachi Enbujo
Prices vary depending on the seat, so it’s hard to say, but I recommend going there and getting a seat close to the exit, and the highest seat where you can see the show from the front. The paid performance hall is divided into two parts, from 6 pm to 7h30 pm and from 8h20 pm to 10 pm. There are three venues:
①Aibahama Enbujo
②Minamiuchimachi Enbujo
③Konyamachi Enbujo
These events are held at night, but there are some places where you can see them for free during the day during the Awa Odori period, as follows:
① Amiko Dome
② Awagin Hall (Tokushima Prefectural Cultural Center)
In addition, even outside of the Awa Odori period, you can see Awa Odori performances at the Awa Odori Hall all year round.
For more information, please see the Tokushima City Sightseeing Model Itinerary.
Awa Odori Dance Experience
From here, I will introduce the Awa Odori Dance that I actually went to. I went on the last day of the Awa Odori Dance, August 15th. This is the Aibahama Enbujo Theater that I went to during the day.
It’s not yet time, so there is nothing there, but it seems like it would be difficult to take in the sights like this unless it was during the day. Among the paid performance venues, this Aibahama Enbujo is the one where entertainers often perform.
Extremely rare!! Memorial Awa Odori Dance
The main event of the Awa Odori Dance is at night, so I spent the day sightseeing in the town. I took a ropeway from the Awa Odori Hall to the top of Mt. Bizan, where the Awa Odori Dance was being held in front of a pagoda.
On this day, the anniversary of the end of the war, the Awa Odori Dance was held in remembrance, and I was able to see the rare sight of monks dancing while reciting sutras. It makes sense, as the Bon Odori is a ceremony to honor ancestors, but I was surprised because I came without knowing anything about it. A TV company was also there to film, and I was even caught on camera on the evening news. More than that, it was the first time I’d ever seen Awa Odori Dance, and there weren’t many people around, so I was incredibly lucky to be able to watch it from up close. I’m not sure if it’s held on the same date and time every year, but it was around 1 pm on August 15th.
Must dance during the day too
Continuing sightseeing in Tokushima, I went to the Amico Dome on the second floor of Amico, a shopping centre near Tokushima Station, where we saw an Awa Odori Dance being performed on stage.
This is a free viewing for anyone, so it was perfect for those who want to enjoy the Awa Odori Dance in the afternoon. It’s close by and various groups take turns performing, so I recommend it.
Hotel room was too nice
After that, I checked in at the hotel and headed to my room, which was right in front of the Aibahama Enbujo Theater. I could look down on the theater and see Mt. Bizan, where I had been until just now, in the distance.
I didn’t request a specific room location, so I appreciate the hotel’s kindness.
After resting for a while, I looked out the window and saw the first part of the night had begun.
The theater is in a straight line, and the performers march along it. In this photo, the entrance is on the left, and the price of seats increases as you move to the right. Therefore, you can see that the seats on the right, where there are more things to see, are more full.
Town-wide uproar
Traffic restrictions will be in place from 6 pm, and some areas will become pedestrian zones. I had already purchased a ticket for the second part, which starts at 8h20 pm, so I walked around the town until then. From Shinmachi Bridge over the Shinmachi River, I could see a group already performing the Awa Odori Dance.
Just across the bridge is Shinmachibashi Enbujo, one of the free performance venues, which has space reserved for parades along the road, just like the paid performance venues.
Since it was free, there were a lot of spectators, so I thought it would be difficult to find a spot. But after lining up for a while in a position where I could see from the front, some spectators left, so I was able to find a good spot in about 10 minutes. The power and excitement of the performance gradually increasing from the back to the front was so moving that I wanted to watch it forever. I left because I wanted to see other places, but I felt that I could still enjoy it even though it was free.
Leaving the free performance hall and heading to our next destination, I passed through a nearby shopping district, where the Awa Odori Dance was also being performed.
I was surprised because this isn’t a performance hall or anything like that.
After passing through the shopping district, I arrived at the dance square south of Ryogoku Bridge. Here, instead of a parade, I could see the dance on stage.
After crossing Ryogoku Bridge, we came across an Awa Odori monument on the bridge railing.
Just beyond the bridge was the second free performance venue, Ryogoku Honmachi Performance Theatre, but there were so many people there that it was impossible for me to go and see anything, and my reservation time was approaching, so I gave up and headed to the paid performance venue.
In order to get to the venue quickly, I took a back road with less people, but here too I encountered a group.
I was really surprised because they were dancing everywhere.
Paid Performance Hall
I somehow managed to arrive at Minamiuchimachi Enbujo Theater in time.
I had purchased tickets for the second part of the show in advance, and when I showed them to the attendant, I was able to enter without any problems.
There was a bridge in front of my seat and I wondered what it was, and then the performance began.
Each group took turns walking, but the best thing about paying a fee is that you can sit down and take your time to watch. Naturally, each group had a different costume, but as I mentioned earlier, each group performed a different style of dance, so each group had their own unique style and was well worth seeing.
I was fascinated by the unity and overwhelming presence of the famous long-established groups, and it was interesting to see the corporate groups’ slogans directly serve as advertising for their companies.
What was disappointing was that they were doing a formation dance where the formation changed further ahead than where I was sitting. I thought it was cool when I saw the men’s and women’s dances forming formations and posing in the afternoon at the memorial Awa Odori Dance, so it was disappointing that I couldn’t see it up close.
Then, about an hour into the second half, it started to rain. I would have thought that I could have used an umbrella, but umbrellas were prohibited because they would have blocked the view of the other spectators. So I continued watching, soaking wet. I had enjoyed the splendor of the Awa Odori Dance in the first hour before the rain, but in the second half, when it was raining, I watched with a feeling of support, thinking that they must have been practicing for this moment on the final day.
Some spectators left because of the rain, but I stayed for one reason. It was the general dance. The general dance is a special event that is only held in the second part of this Minamiuchimachi Enbujo, where all the groups that participated that day come together and parade together for the final time. I chose this day as the finale of the day, but unfortunately it rained. Still, it was moving to see the various costumes, the groups all mixed together, and the way they walked together as one.
At the end, the audience joined in the dancing and it all ended happily.
Tips for enjoying the Awa Odori Dance
This time, I would like to introduce some tips that I felt would be helpful in order to enjoy the Awa Odori Dance even more.
①Book a hotel early
The Awa Odori festival is held in August, but I made my hotel reservation in May. I actually started looking for hotels at the end of April, but most of the hotels were already booked at that point. I continued searching for hotels every day from then on, and finally managed to get one in May. The price was 15,000 yen for a room only, but it had risen to nearly 40,000 yen at the last minute. For this reason, if you are traveling mainly for the festival, it is best to book a hotel early. Some hotels allow free cancellation up to the last minute, so make your reservation first. As I have just explained, not only is securing a base for your stay a top priority, but it also helps to keep the price low.
②At paid performance venues, reserve a seat near the exit
I’ve already mentioned this, but if you’re watching Awa Odori Dance at a paid performance venue, choose a seat close to the exit. The reason is that the closer you are to the exit, the easier it is to see the formation dance. The most ideal seat is the highest seat so you can see it from the front, but if not, try to get as close to the exit as possible. You should definitely see the coolness up close.
③Prepare rain gear
As mentioned in the experience story, you can not use an umbrella even if it rains at the venue. Therefore, I recommend bringing a raincoat. When I went, it was sunny during the day but it started raining at night, so it’s better to have one prepared.
④Let’s dance together
One of the best parts of Awa Odori Dance is that the audience can also participate. You can join in from the beginning as a temporary group, but sometimes there is time set aside at the end of the performance for the audience to dance along with the others. So let’s dance together and enjoy the festival.
Summary
This concludes our introduction to the Awa Odori Dance held in Tokushima City. You can’t experience the excitement and realism of the real thing unless you’re there, so if you’re interested after reading this, be sure to go see the Awa Odori Dance. It will be a memory that will last a lifetime!!
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